We've just launched two new online resources to support Solar Panel Quoter and Home Improvement Quotes websites.
FIrstly - a new blog dedicated to Solar Energy and renewable energy with news snippets and information from around the web which can be found at solarpanelquoter.blogspot.com.
We'll be exploring everything from installing solar panels to Inverter wiring, batteries, expanding an existing solar panel installation, back up power systems (for those that live in remote areas), RV and marine solar solutions etc. as well as linking to some of the most up to date resources on the web.
And of course, you'll be able to get an instant online quote for solar panels.
Secondly, Solar Panel Quoter has its own Twitter account where we've already been busy connecting with other Twitter users involved in solar energy or support greener living thru solar energy.
Click here to visit Solar Panel Quoter's twitter account - why not follow us?
Friday, 28 August 2009
Friday, 21 August 2009
Prolonging the life of your uPVC windows and doors - essential maintenance tips
Prolonging the life of your uPVC windows and doors.
One of the major selling points of uPVC frames is the relatively small amount of ongoing maintenance they require, in comparison to other materials.
Whilst it’s true that they do not require a great deal of maintenance, though, there are still a few things you should keep a close check on if you want to maximise the potential life of your units – and keeping on top of window maintenance could save you thousands of pounds further on down the line.
Maintenance is especially important if the window or door in question is a fire escape route, whether that be at home or in a commercial setting.
The most common problems come when handles or locking mechanisms break, or the hinges seize up. These mechanisms make up the majority of the moving parts of the window frame Thankfully, taking just a few minutes every 6 to 12 months is all it takes to
To keep the frames as good as new, simply take some silicone lubricant or machine oil and apply it every 6 to 12 months on all window and door moving parts – handles, locking mechanisms (including the bolts set into the edge of the frame) and all of the hinges (don’t forget the top ones). Turn the handles and open and close the windows to work in the oil and you’ll be set.
This will help prevent premature seizing and breaking due to the stress put upon hinges and locks where the window/door itself moves stiffly.
As well as making sure the handles, locks and hinges still work, an amount of maintenance is required to keep the appearance of the windows as pristine as possible. If you want to keep your white frames shiny white, it’s important to at least run over them with a cloth every few months, or the dirt will stick and become very tricky to remove.
This is especially true for vertical windows fitted with self-cleaning glass, since dirt runs very easily from the glass pane but may remain on the sill and the bottom of the frame. You should pay particular attention to making sure the frame remains as clean as possible or you may risk permanent discolouration of the plastic.
If you keep your windows well maintained, you can expect them to last 25 years or more – but eventually they will reach a point where they can no longer be salvaged. When that day comes, simply head to WindowQuoter for a free and instant online quote for new windows or doors.
One of the major selling points of uPVC frames is the relatively small amount of ongoing maintenance they require, in comparison to other materials.
Whilst it’s true that they do not require a great deal of maintenance, though, there are still a few things you should keep a close check on if you want to maximise the potential life of your units – and keeping on top of window maintenance could save you thousands of pounds further on down the line.
Maintenance is especially important if the window or door in question is a fire escape route, whether that be at home or in a commercial setting.
The most common problems come when handles or locking mechanisms break, or the hinges seize up. These mechanisms make up the majority of the moving parts of the window frame Thankfully, taking just a few minutes every 6 to 12 months is all it takes to
To keep the frames as good as new, simply take some silicone lubricant or machine oil and apply it every 6 to 12 months on all window and door moving parts – handles, locking mechanisms (including the bolts set into the edge of the frame) and all of the hinges (don’t forget the top ones). Turn the handles and open and close the windows to work in the oil and you’ll be set.
This will help prevent premature seizing and breaking due to the stress put upon hinges and locks where the window/door itself moves stiffly.
As well as making sure the handles, locks and hinges still work, an amount of maintenance is required to keep the appearance of the windows as pristine as possible. If you want to keep your white frames shiny white, it’s important to at least run over them with a cloth every few months, or the dirt will stick and become very tricky to remove.
This is especially true for vertical windows fitted with self-cleaning glass, since dirt runs very easily from the glass pane but may remain on the sill and the bottom of the frame. You should pay particular attention to making sure the frame remains as clean as possible or you may risk permanent discolouration of the plastic.
If you keep your windows well maintained, you can expect them to last 25 years or more – but eventually they will reach a point where they can no longer be salvaged. When that day comes, simply head to WindowQuoter for a free and instant online quote for new windows or doors.
Thursday, 20 August 2009
Knowing your Gable End from your Elbow - guide to fascia
Knowing your Gable End from your Elbow.
Our fasciaquoter website shows you diagrams to help you identify how and what to measure – all measurements should be able to be taken from the ground, including the gable ends so you haven’t got to reach for the ladders to get an online quote.
Roofline refers to the wood or plastic boarding around your home that runs between the roof and the tops of the walls. Your guttering is included in the term ‘roofline’ as it’s the boarding that your home’s guttering is fixed to, collecting rainfall from the roof covering.
Traditionally, roofline has always been wooden and flaking and rotting timbers around the roofs of properties are surprisingly commonplace. Left untreated, this can easily lead to leaking roofs and ceilings as bad weather forces its way through into the loft / wall cavity space behind.
Very often, this rot goes beyond the visible timbers and affects those that hold flashing in place etc. This is when water is most likely to leak through and into the inside of the house, ruining interior decoration and furnishings.
Maintenance of wooden roofline is a constant battle with the elements and usually involves a yearly sanding down and re-painting chore and not a very pleasant one either. Having to balance off of a wobbly ladder with paintbrush in hand (if the weather allows you) – it’s not much fun! Also, the costs associated with repairing rotting roofline can be quite high now as new health and safety regulations may mean the erecting of scaffolding where previously a ladder would have sufficed for access, which is why Upvc roofline has become most appealing.
Upvc roofline has become the modern material of choice. Like its window counterpart, it doesn’t need re-painting, is extremely low maintenance and doesn’t rot and it doesn’t just come in white. You can very often specify dark or light woodgrain effects as well. To complement the colour of your upvc windows or doors etc or just to blend in with your homes exterior in general.
However, asking for advice when you don’t know the ‘lingo’ can be daunting and off-putting so here’s a quick guide to the essential roofline components:
Bargeboards – these are the fascia boards that follow gable end rooflines. They are usually cut to form a neat join at the apex of the roof (eaves end) and the gable end (where bargeboard meets fascia).
Soffits – this is the boarding that runs right angle to the wall surface, facing downwards. Its very often ventilated with mesh covered slots to allow roof space to breathe, the mesh stops birds and other wildlife entering your loft space.
Cladding – this is the ‘overlapping planking’ you see on some properties either in gable ends, or on walls. You’ll also find it on some properties that have bay windows – the cladding being fitted between the upstairs and downstairs bays. Again traditionally wooden, wooden cladding can soon need re-painting, is prone to rotting and letting damp affect interior walls. Upvc cladding solves these maintenance problems and is also available in insulated upvc cladding in a tongue and groove or overlapping style.
Guttering – the half pipe and whole downpipes that collect rain water from the roof edges and take it to drainage on the ground. This also includes the clips that the guttering fixes to the roofline with. Guttering is now available in square as well as round pipe, and usually white of black plastic.
Fascia – this is the boarding that guttering normally fixes to. Its usually in straight lengths so it’s pretty easy to pace or measure the lengths from the ground when you want to get a quote.
Flashing – usually lead – is the ‘grey metallic’ strip that is usually cemented into the brickwork and covers / lips over the edge of the roof, making a durable waterproof ‘edge’. It’s not usually affected by the fitting of new fascia, except where flashing meets the roofline. In most cases, it can be bent back (it’s quite a soft pliable material) out of the way and then re-hammered and bent into place afterwards. Most noticeable around chimney stacks where they meet the roof and on some modern homes, it’s used where moulded bay window canopies meet the wall. You’ll also find it where conservatory roofs meet the wall of your property.
When having roofline replaced and especially if its replacing wooden roofline, then its important to check the felt underneath. This is usually the point at which felt deteriorates the most. If it does need replacing, then it’s usually a matter of removing the first few rows of tiles and fitting a new length of felt before replacing the tiles. Sometimes, the first wooden baton the tiles fix too has also rotted beyond repair. No worry, a new baton is simply fixed in its place whilst the roof is exposed. No sense in having to remove it all again next year to do the job then.
Home Improvement Quotes has a dedicated website where you can get an instant online quote for your property - Just type in your measurements, specify gable or straight runs, if you require guttering (it usually make sense to have the lot done at the same time) and if you require the old roofline removing.
Go to www.fasciaquoter.co.uk and try it now. Its completely free and only takes a few minutes to give you a price quote there and then without the need for a salesman to call! You can save pounds by getting an online quote and a considerable amount of hassle and time by having approved companies come and do the work for you.
If you are still thinking of replacing your fascia yourself with upvc, one thing you must watch out for is the correct use of upvc fixtures and fittings and as upvc roofline involves the use of end strips and cappings, that these follow the line of rainfall so they don’t attract and trap water – causing more rotting problems that you had before. Then there’s still that ladder to contend with…
Our fasciaquoter website shows you diagrams to help you identify how and what to measure – all measurements should be able to be taken from the ground, including the gable ends so you haven’t got to reach for the ladders to get an online quote.
Roofline refers to the wood or plastic boarding around your home that runs between the roof and the tops of the walls. Your guttering is included in the term ‘roofline’ as it’s the boarding that your home’s guttering is fixed to, collecting rainfall from the roof covering.
Traditionally, roofline has always been wooden and flaking and rotting timbers around the roofs of properties are surprisingly commonplace. Left untreated, this can easily lead to leaking roofs and ceilings as bad weather forces its way through into the loft / wall cavity space behind.
Very often, this rot goes beyond the visible timbers and affects those that hold flashing in place etc. This is when water is most likely to leak through and into the inside of the house, ruining interior decoration and furnishings.
Maintenance of wooden roofline is a constant battle with the elements and usually involves a yearly sanding down and re-painting chore and not a very pleasant one either. Having to balance off of a wobbly ladder with paintbrush in hand (if the weather allows you) – it’s not much fun! Also, the costs associated with repairing rotting roofline can be quite high now as new health and safety regulations may mean the erecting of scaffolding where previously a ladder would have sufficed for access, which is why Upvc roofline has become most appealing.
Upvc roofline has become the modern material of choice. Like its window counterpart, it doesn’t need re-painting, is extremely low maintenance and doesn’t rot and it doesn’t just come in white. You can very often specify dark or light woodgrain effects as well. To complement the colour of your upvc windows or doors etc or just to blend in with your homes exterior in general.
However, asking for advice when you don’t know the ‘lingo’ can be daunting and off-putting so here’s a quick guide to the essential roofline components:
Bargeboards – these are the fascia boards that follow gable end rooflines. They are usually cut to form a neat join at the apex of the roof (eaves end) and the gable end (where bargeboard meets fascia).
Soffits – this is the boarding that runs right angle to the wall surface, facing downwards. Its very often ventilated with mesh covered slots to allow roof space to breathe, the mesh stops birds and other wildlife entering your loft space.
Cladding – this is the ‘overlapping planking’ you see on some properties either in gable ends, or on walls. You’ll also find it on some properties that have bay windows – the cladding being fitted between the upstairs and downstairs bays. Again traditionally wooden, wooden cladding can soon need re-painting, is prone to rotting and letting damp affect interior walls. Upvc cladding solves these maintenance problems and is also available in insulated upvc cladding in a tongue and groove or overlapping style.
Guttering – the half pipe and whole downpipes that collect rain water from the roof edges and take it to drainage on the ground. This also includes the clips that the guttering fixes to the roofline with. Guttering is now available in square as well as round pipe, and usually white of black plastic.
Fascia – this is the boarding that guttering normally fixes to. Its usually in straight lengths so it’s pretty easy to pace or measure the lengths from the ground when you want to get a quote.
Flashing – usually lead – is the ‘grey metallic’ strip that is usually cemented into the brickwork and covers / lips over the edge of the roof, making a durable waterproof ‘edge’. It’s not usually affected by the fitting of new fascia, except where flashing meets the roofline. In most cases, it can be bent back (it’s quite a soft pliable material) out of the way and then re-hammered and bent into place afterwards. Most noticeable around chimney stacks where they meet the roof and on some modern homes, it’s used where moulded bay window canopies meet the wall. You’ll also find it where conservatory roofs meet the wall of your property.
When having roofline replaced and especially if its replacing wooden roofline, then its important to check the felt underneath. This is usually the point at which felt deteriorates the most. If it does need replacing, then it’s usually a matter of removing the first few rows of tiles and fitting a new length of felt before replacing the tiles. Sometimes, the first wooden baton the tiles fix too has also rotted beyond repair. No worry, a new baton is simply fixed in its place whilst the roof is exposed. No sense in having to remove it all again next year to do the job then.
Home Improvement Quotes has a dedicated website where you can get an instant online quote for your property - Just type in your measurements, specify gable or straight runs, if you require guttering (it usually make sense to have the lot done at the same time) and if you require the old roofline removing.
Go to www.fasciaquoter.co.uk and try it now. Its completely free and only takes a few minutes to give you a price quote there and then without the need for a salesman to call! You can save pounds by getting an online quote and a considerable amount of hassle and time by having approved companies come and do the work for you.
If you are still thinking of replacing your fascia yourself with upvc, one thing you must watch out for is the correct use of upvc fixtures and fittings and as upvc roofline involves the use of end strips and cappings, that these follow the line of rainfall so they don’t attract and trap water – causing more rotting problems that you had before. Then there’s still that ladder to contend with…
Monday, 17 August 2009
The damage rain can cause to your home's walls
You might be surprised to learn just how much damage the rain can cause to your home’s walls if left unchecked and untreated. Particularly after a wet summer like we’ve had this year – without the warm, dry months, by next spring your walls may have taken quite a battering at the hands of the elements.
Without protecting your walls, you may start seeing cracked, blown and discoloured patches over your walls. It’s worth paying close attention, because noticing these small signs could save you a fortune in the long run.
So what can you do if you start to notice them? Painting over the damage can be a start, and will provide a little protection for a while, but within a few years the paint will crack, peel, and discolour in the sun. A rendered exterior can make your house look truly stunning, adding extra value to your home and making it a nicer place to live in.
On the other hand, exterior rendering can provide an excellent and long lasting solution to the problem of rain damage. A rendered wall coating will last for upwards of 25 years, and with a well maintained exterior, your house will weather the weather even better than ever.
Well maintained exterior rendering can also alleviate rising or penetrating damp, which can be a major cause of colds and sniffles. If your home is already suffering from rising damp, you should to seek expert advice before continuing
If your house is looking old and tired, perhaps it’s time to give it a facelift. A rendered coating will save you money over the long term – and to save even more money, get an instant quote for rendering your property by heading over to renderingquoter.co.uk now.
photo credit: jasonrogers
Friday, 14 August 2009
Is the Housing Market Starting to Perk Up?
Is the Housing Market Starting to Perk Up?
Economists believe that house price falls have begun to flatten out, and some suggest we may see rises in coming months.
The two biggest mortgage brokers, Halifax and Nationwide, recorded 1.1% and 1.3% rises in prices in July, and the year-on-year fall in prices went from 15% in June to 12.1% in July. Halifax has also revised its estimates of house price changes in 2009, halving its predicted drop from 15% to 7%.
A number of factors have been cited in helping prices begin to stabilise. There is still a shortage of housing, which is driving demand and pushing prices upwards. What’s more, home building has been increasingly sparse since property prices began their dramatic decline two years ago.
Low interest rates are helping slow the fall, and mortgage providers have started easing up on lending: mortgage approvals bottomed out at around 30,000 a month, but were back up to over 47,500 in July – but that’s still a long way from the peak in 2007 of 120,000.
It may not yet be time to head to the estate agent, though. It is possible that the rises are as much due to cash-rich buyers moving back into the market, and some have expressed fears that we could see more sudden drops in prices as buyers reappear if mortgage costs rise, or any more financial trouble rears its head.
One great way to get a bargain home is to buy a small house and start renovating it – converting the garage or loft and adding extensions are typically home improvements which will add the most value to your home.
To get an idea of how much a garage conversion might cost, you can get a free online estimate using Garage Conversion Quoter.
photo credit: seemodernbrittain
Wednesday, 5 August 2009
Double Glazing - Energy Efficient Glazing Glossary
Energy Efficient Glazing Glossary
We all know, nowadays, that we’re supposed to be environmentally friendly and energy efficient. Were you are, though, that heat loss through windows and doors in a typical home accounts for 30% of the energy used to heat the building in the first place? In other words, simply by installing highly efficient windows, you could start saving a big chunk of change on your energy bill.
Are you aware, though, of what you should be looking for, and what all the terms manufacturers use in their sales literature mean? To help you understand more, we’ve pit together a short glossary of the most important terms in Energy Efficient Glazing.
BFRC – The British Fenestration Ratings Council (BFRC) are the standards-setting body for energy efficiency in the double glazing industry. They test and rate windows, doors and conservatories, and produce guidelines for homeowners and manufacturers. You may have seen a BFRC label (pictured on the right)
Energy Index Value – The energy index value is a simplified general measure of the energy performance of a given window, including its frame and fitting. The value is calculated by testing a standard sized window (1230mm x 1480mm) for variety of factors, including the U-value, and the amount of air which can leak through the frame. The Energy Index Value is given in kWh/m2/year, and for good, modern windows typically falls between -30 and 0
Energy Rating – The most eye-catching item on the BFRC label is the alphabetical rating given to the window casement as a whole, based on the Energy Index Value. These go from A (Outstanding — Energy Index Value >= 0) to G (Very Poor — Energy Index Value <-70). The BFRC say that replacing standard windows with windows which have an energy rating of C or higher can lead to 90% reductions in energy loss.
Low-E Glass – Low emissivity glass, or ‘Low-E’ as it is often called, is the latest in energy efficient glass manufacturing. The panes have an invisible coating applied to them which allows energy from the sun to pass through the window in one direction, but prevents heat from escaping the house in the other direction.
U-Value/Thermal Transmittance – The U-Value represents the amount heat which can escape your house through your window. Using U-Values to compare windows has been less common in recent times in favour of using more comprehensive measures such as the Energy Index Value, but some salesmen will still mention U-Values. Because U-Values can be measured for the glass pane on its own as well as for the entire window unit including its frame, it’s very important to ensure you clarify what measure people are using when they mention U-Values.
You can find more information on choosing double glazing at Home Improvement Quotes website. If you'd like to get an instant online quote for your double glazing, which includes all the latest energy efficient coatings, then try WindowQuoter for an instant online double glazing quote.
We all know, nowadays, that we’re supposed to be environmentally friendly and energy efficient. Were you are, though, that heat loss through windows and doors in a typical home accounts for 30% of the energy used to heat the building in the first place? In other words, simply by installing highly efficient windows, you could start saving a big chunk of change on your energy bill.
Are you aware, though, of what you should be looking for, and what all the terms manufacturers use in their sales literature mean? To help you understand more, we’ve pit together a short glossary of the most important terms in Energy Efficient Glazing.
BFRC – The British Fenestration Ratings Council (BFRC) are the standards-setting body for energy efficiency in the double glazing industry. They test and rate windows, doors and conservatories, and produce guidelines for homeowners and manufacturers. You may have seen a BFRC label (pictured on the right)
Energy Index Value – The energy index value is a simplified general measure of the energy performance of a given window, including its frame and fitting. The value is calculated by testing a standard sized window (1230mm x 1480mm) for variety of factors, including the U-value, and the amount of air which can leak through the frame. The Energy Index Value is given in kWh/m2/year, and for good, modern windows typically falls between -30 and 0
Energy Rating – The most eye-catching item on the BFRC label is the alphabetical rating given to the window casement as a whole, based on the Energy Index Value. These go from A (Outstanding — Energy Index Value >= 0) to G (Very Poor — Energy Index Value <-70). The BFRC say that replacing standard windows with windows which have an energy rating of C or higher can lead to 90% reductions in energy loss.
Low-E Glass – Low emissivity glass, or ‘Low-E’ as it is often called, is the latest in energy efficient glass manufacturing. The panes have an invisible coating applied to them which allows energy from the sun to pass through the window in one direction, but prevents heat from escaping the house in the other direction.
U-Value/Thermal Transmittance – The U-Value represents the amount heat which can escape your house through your window. Using U-Values to compare windows has been less common in recent times in favour of using more comprehensive measures such as the Energy Index Value, but some salesmen will still mention U-Values. Because U-Values can be measured for the glass pane on its own as well as for the entire window unit including its frame, it’s very important to ensure you clarify what measure people are using when they mention U-Values.
You can find more information on choosing double glazing at Home Improvement Quotes website. If you'd like to get an instant online quote for your double glazing, which includes all the latest energy efficient coatings, then try WindowQuoter for an instant online double glazing quote.
Sunday, 2 August 2009
Listed Buildings: What are your double glazing options?
Listed Buildings: What are your options?
Buildings which are listed, or are within a conservation area, can sometimes seem like a headache to improve or renovate. Strict planning laws often prevent modern renovations being made, or specific materials being used.
When it comes to installing double glazing on a listed building, it seems the advice that English Heritage are happiest to give out is “don’t”. Clearly, the benefits of double glazing are numerous, particularly in terms of increasing the energy efficiency of your home, reducing your heating bills and indeed pushing up the value of your house.
So what options are available to you, if you wish to install more energy efficient windows in your listed home?
Try to match the style
Nowadays, double glazed windows are available in a wide range of frame styles, including sash and mock Georgian, which have the appearance of traditional windows. These can be constructed from hardwood, to help give the appearance of the original wood frames, and window manufacturers are increasingly able to replicate the original styles.
Make sure you enquire with your local planning office before considering taking this approach, however, as they need to be notified whenever you change anything – especially if it involves replacing window frames. Explain what frame styles and materials you’re looking at, and if possible who you’ve found to supply them.
Re-use the old materials
You can score points with your local planning office by attempting to use the materials – particularly original cylinder and crown glass panes – if your house already has them. Changing out rotten or draughty frames around the original glass can give surprisingly large energy savings, but may require a specialist.
If you’re looking for a fitter you can ask about frames, we can help you find local double glazing suppliers as well as guide prices – our network of suppliers crosses the entire UK, and includes small, independent companies as well as nation wide brands. Just go to WindowQuoter.co.uk to get started straight away.
Secondary Glazing
If you’re unable to match the style of your original windows, either because they are an unusual style or because you can’t find a supplier, one common way of getting around this issue is to simply leave the old windows in place, preserving the listed building’s façade, and install secondary glazing. This is an extra window placed directly behind the existing frame, giving effective double glazing, and all the benefits it provides, without altering or even touching the building’s existing façade.
Secondary Glazing is an excellent way to improve your listed home’s energy efficiency whilst staying within all but the harshest of planning regulations, but can take up space on the windowsill, and is far harder to open. If possible, .
Making efficiency gains elsewhere in the house
If you can’t have secondary glazing or find a suitable way to have double glazing fitted, In many old houses and cottages, the windows do not cover a large proportion of the outside of the building. When this is the case, efficiency savings from installing double glazing can be smaller than you might expect, and greater gains could be made by sealing up draughty holes and window frames.
Find a window supplier who can help you get started by going to WindowQuoter.co.uk for a free online double glazing quotation.
NB: This article applies mainly to Grade II listed buildings, the category which covers 93% of listed buildings in the UK. For Grade I and Grade II* listed buildings, the planning office restrictions also cover changes to the inside of the building, meaning that secondary glazing will also require permission. For more information contact your local planning office.
Buildings which are listed, or are within a conservation area, can sometimes seem like a headache to improve or renovate. Strict planning laws often prevent modern renovations being made, or specific materials being used.
When it comes to installing double glazing on a listed building, it seems the advice that English Heritage are happiest to give out is “don’t”. Clearly, the benefits of double glazing are numerous, particularly in terms of increasing the energy efficiency of your home, reducing your heating bills and indeed pushing up the value of your house.
So what options are available to you, if you wish to install more energy efficient windows in your listed home?
Try to match the style
Nowadays, double glazed windows are available in a wide range of frame styles, including sash and mock Georgian, which have the appearance of traditional windows. These can be constructed from hardwood, to help give the appearance of the original wood frames, and window manufacturers are increasingly able to replicate the original styles.
Make sure you enquire with your local planning office before considering taking this approach, however, as they need to be notified whenever you change anything – especially if it involves replacing window frames. Explain what frame styles and materials you’re looking at, and if possible who you’ve found to supply them.
Re-use the old materials
You can score points with your local planning office by attempting to use the materials – particularly original cylinder and crown glass panes – if your house already has them. Changing out rotten or draughty frames around the original glass can give surprisingly large energy savings, but may require a specialist.
If you’re looking for a fitter you can ask about frames, we can help you find local double glazing suppliers as well as guide prices – our network of suppliers crosses the entire UK, and includes small, independent companies as well as nation wide brands. Just go to WindowQuoter.co.uk to get started straight away.
Secondary Glazing
If you’re unable to match the style of your original windows, either because they are an unusual style or because you can’t find a supplier, one common way of getting around this issue is to simply leave the old windows in place, preserving the listed building’s façade, and install secondary glazing. This is an extra window placed directly behind the existing frame, giving effective double glazing, and all the benefits it provides, without altering or even touching the building’s existing façade.
Secondary Glazing is an excellent way to improve your listed home’s energy efficiency whilst staying within all but the harshest of planning regulations, but can take up space on the windowsill, and is far harder to open. If possible, .
Making efficiency gains elsewhere in the house
If you can’t have secondary glazing or find a suitable way to have double glazing fitted, In many old houses and cottages, the windows do not cover a large proportion of the outside of the building. When this is the case, efficiency savings from installing double glazing can be smaller than you might expect, and greater gains could be made by sealing up draughty holes and window frames.
Find a window supplier who can help you get started by going to WindowQuoter.co.uk for a free online double glazing quotation.
NB: This article applies mainly to Grade II listed buildings, the category which covers 93% of listed buildings in the UK. For Grade I and Grade II* listed buildings, the planning office restrictions also cover changes to the inside of the building, meaning that secondary glazing will also require permission. For more information contact your local planning office.
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